When I first became aware of Naeba Sanroku Geopark- the massive archaeological site and nature preserve surrounding the small towns of Tsunan and Sakae on the border of Niigata and Nagano- I was somewhat perplexed; rather than a closely-connected series of exhibits and curated tourist attractions that is commonly seen here, Naeba Sanroku Geopark is instead a sprawling natural wonderland that encompasses many different aspects of “Snow Country” history and culture. It is simply impossible to experience everything here in a day; I’ve probably been back three or four times now, but there’s still more I want to come and see. Though places in west Tokyo are often considered “inaka” by those who live in metropolitan Tokyo, for example, this is in my opinion the true Japanese inaka, and is much more interesting than many of those suburban commuter towns.

 Things to do at Geopark Part 1: Forest Therapy

My first Geopark experience involved participating in a guided “forest therapy” session at Taruda Mountain Park. Even though I learned a lot from my guide, this wasn’t the strict sort of activity that requires making reservations and waiting in lines. The forests here are open to everyone, and one doesn’t need to be told to relax- it in fact happens naturally when you are away from the sounds of traffic and can no longer see telephone poles or skyscrapers. Instead of convenience stores and pachinko parlors there are miles and miles of trees- mostly beech. They are known for their especially large leaves that help keep the forest below nice and cool even in humid Japanese summer. These are very old sections of forest, some as old as 300 years, and are alive with the sounds of plenty of wildlife. The whole thing was indeed very therapeutic, and it is good to know in this day and age there are plenty of valuable experiences that you can have without needing to download an app or subscribe somewhere!

 Part 2: Visiting the Midama Settlement in Tsunan

The Naeba Sanroku Geopark was originally inhabited by Jomon groups as far back as 10,000 years ago, and even today people still live among this beautiful nature, such as at the settlement in Midama. The Midama settlement is close to Ryugakubo Pond, which is known as one of the 100 most beautiful bodies of water in Japan. This serene forest trail opens up into a pond which is said to be protected by a mythical dragon. It is especially beautiful after the rain, when the entire surface is covered in a light mist. You can see dragons all over Ryugakubo, including at the dragon’s shrine further into the forest.

It was easy from here to see really amazing scenery, such as Ishiotoshi, which is also known as Tsunan’s “Grand Canyon.” One thing that distinguishes Geopark from many other natural sites is the sheer variety of nature on display here.

A little further down into the settlement is Midama Fudoson Temple, a local Buddhist “power spot.” This thousand-year-old temple is located on top of a hill above a serene waterfall. I am told that this is also considered a prime location to view the fall colors. Whereas the previous shrine contained plenty of dragons, the area around the temple here has a frog statue that for one reason or another, seems to attract real frogs! Naturally, this temple isn’t as old as the Jomon ruins here, but instead offers a different view into another era of human culture.